JOAQUIN HERRERA | 210SA GBG offers wild toppings — like the mango avocado salsa on the Tropical Burger — and great variety — like the Crab Cake and Lamb burgers.

So a burger's a burger's a burger, right? WRONG. You couldn't be more wrong if your view of this American diet staple is slapping a heated-up, formerly frozen patty into a huge, cardboard-tasting bun. If you're settling for that, let us turn you on to the Gourmet Burger Grill, a gem of a little place tucked into one of the newer North Side super strip malls that's still under development. Whether you're a burger connoisseur or just like a burger sometimes, there's something here for you. Gird yourself. These are no ordinary burgers; this is the real gourmet deal, as the chef, formerly of Piatti's, testified.

WHAT: GBG: Gourmet Burger Grill

WHERE: 18414 U.S. 281 N., Suite 116. At The Legacy shopping center at the Loop 1604 intersection; (210) 545-3800; gourmetburgergrill.com

HOURS: 11 a.m.- 9 p.m. Monday-Thursday and Sunday; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday

TASTE SENSATION: Quality and freshness are the key words here. From the Crab Cake Burger (simply heaven) to the Lamb Burger (yes, one of us was brave enough to try it) to just a plain cheeseburger, it's easy to see nothing is skimped on. The sweet potato fries rock, and the onion rings are seasoned perfectly. Drizzle a little of any of the homemade sauces, from ranch dressing to chipotle mayo, and you can steer your burger any way you like. A few of the more interesting offerings: Tropical Burger, which features mango avocado salsa; Boursin Burger (boursin is a highly tasty cheese); and Chicken Caesar Burger. And someone said we HAD to mention the Goat Cheese Burger. If you can't decide, check out the Mini Burger Sampler, which will give you a taste of the beef, chicken, turkey, crab and lamb dishes with your choice of sauce. As if all this wasn't enough, throw in free Wi-Fi and a decent wine selection, and you could possibly get hooked.

TUMS-WORTHY: Traffic at 1604 and 281? Well, that's a given. Also, the place is quite small, so get there early or late to miss the lunch rush. And expect to wait: Everything is made from scratch. The menu prices are not listed online, which was a little bit of a turnoff.

THE 210 TAKE: There was not a disappointing thing on our table (and we had a lot!). This is some good stuff, so be prepared to pay for it. A plain cheeseburger starts at $7.95. Sweet potato fries are $2.95. But the portions are generous, and the quality will make your mouth water. Nothing beats a perfectly made burger you know was made just for you.

Julie Ann Vera | 210SA