Los Generales, where the tortillas are homemade, the dishes are named after famous figures of the Mexican Revolution and the dining is fine. Julie Ann Vera | 210SA

Los Generales is unassuming on the outside, but walk through the doors and you might feel a little like you're walking back in time to an old saloon in El Paso, where Pancho Villa is eating ice cream (he didn't drink but did like saloons) at the bar and Emiliano Zapata is in a corner with his big hat, moustache and entourage, planning how to bring down that pesky Porfirio Diaz. Indeed, the dishes on the menu of Los Generales are named after famous figures of the Mexican Revolution: We bet Francisco Madero never thought he'd be two cheese enchiladas and beef or chicken fajitas. And would Diaz try to dictate over his two enchiladas topped with chile con carne and tacos?

WHAT: Los Generales

WHERE: 16216 Nacogdoches, just inside Loop 1604, on the other side of the street from the Wal-Mart

HOURS: 7 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; Friday and Saturday, it stays open till the crowd dies down

TASTE SENSATION: The mark of a good Mex restaurant? The tortillas. Torts separate the men from the boys in the Mex eatery world. Both the corn and flour at Los Generales are obviously homemade, with the telltale comal scars (OK, yes, we know those can be fake and painted on; these are real) and fresh flavor we expect, no, demand from our Mex restaurants. Breakfast was good, but dinner entrees are better. But even those aren't as good as the service. On one visit, the dish came to the table wrong, and the server wasted no time making amends and adjustments. It was an all-around pleasant experience.

TUMS-WORTHY: The table salsa could've been a little spicier. That's not too big a flaw for a place that's been open only four months. But we definitely plan return trips to see what else we can find!

THE 210 TAKE: This is a really laid-back, comfortable place where you can grab a reasonably priced bite to eat or linger over the full bar. Owners Alex and Blanca Lizama (he's from El Salvador, she's from Monterrey) have put a lot of thought into the décor, right down to the rough wood and Mexican posters on the wall. Check out the live bands and karaoke on Friday and Saturday nights, and happy hour takes place Monday-Friday from 2 p.m. to 7 p.m. for $2 domestic beers, $4 margaritas and “bebidas especiales.” Who knows, you might catch Zapata singing a Selena song during karaoke while Villa holds court and stuffs his face.

Julie Ann Vera | 210SA